The first-ever visit of this ardent Wagnerite to his festival at Bayreuth coincides exactly with my 20th anniversary of contributing this column to The Spectator. How satisfying to combine them! Arriving by rail, the initial aspect of the little Bayreuth white strip is somewhat humdrum — an impression later dispelled as one grows familiar with layout and feel.
Unlike major German cities, after heavy bombing Bayreuth was rebuilt to resemble what was lost; so we see a decent texture of 18thth-century vernacular architecture in local stone, rising to handsome in squares, and curves and vistas opening out to nature, formal and rustic, in an extensive Hofgarten.
It only sinks to indignity, like everywhere else, as the ring road is reached. Upon this modest court capital from the pages of Thackeray or Carlyle was imposed the heaviest cultural cuckoo-egg imaginable.
Even now, more than years on, the Festspielhaus retains an unassimilated look, floating Craigslist free stuff in Duisburg on its hillbrow, approached by sombre strips of lawn and park culminating in an outburst of garish civic blooms. Function prevails. Money was short; ornament had to be minimal. Merely as a Bayreuth white strip, however, its contents are endlessly absorbing.
Elsewhere in the town is an excellent museum of its history, trades, artefacts, social life, perfect of its kind, that manages to avoid almost wholly anything whatever to do with the Wagner takeover. As to the interior of the Festspielhaus, here, too, financial stringency compelled absence of Nsa sex apps Cottbus and swagger.
Only a quarter of a century or so on, architectural ornament would be declared a crime: a theatre absolutely stark and essential would have been featured in all the histories: bold, ahead of its time — in fact, timeless. Enough of all this scene-setting! What matters is, how it Flensburg girls stripping. Sightlines in this uninterrupted space are good unless you happen to be fronted by a person of unusual height or girth; which must be just as bad for usually him because the rows are tight and narrow.
The seats are notoriously punishing, too; not so much their corduroy-covered bottoms as their unyielding wood backs. But cushions are permitted and widely resorted to; surprising, because you would think that several hundred cushions would alter the acoustic.
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Apparently Bayreuth white strip. Once singing begins, you register the clever balance that permits voices to emerge distinctly, without straining, over even the most turbulant orchestral textures, and how, within them, every strand is distinct and separate while preserving richness and utterly eschewing the nasty X-ray quality.
When towards the end Call girls in Arnsberg Act I the lovers drink the potion, the total audibility of every tiniest quiver and shudder was uncanny, mesmerising, electrifying. With Meistersinger the next day I was still unsure. Katherina Wagner — great-granddaughter — seemed to be vying to produce the grossest, most tendentious spectacle possible, while evincing hapless incapacity with the elementary basics of stagecraft.
The soft blending of Act III was heavenly; but the great Chorale towards the start of the closing Bayreuth white strip failed to rend the skies. And by the very close, with choir and orchestra going full tilt to less than maximal effect, I was certain.
A German colleague tried the morning after to claim that the lack of impact was ironic, giving these still-troubling sentiments an inbuilt critique by deliberately lowering the dynamic level and the brilliance of tone!
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